Brighton Steakhouse Serves Up Standout Dishes
By Stephen Gurney.
Images Index Digital & Flat Iron
The recently opened Flat Iron in Brighton has quickly become 'the talk of the town' – and an obvious must-visit.
We popped in early on a Saturday evening for a simple one-course steak and sides. The atmosphere was warm and rustic, with dark blue walls, modest lighting, reclaimed wooden furniture and staff buzzing happily around the upstairs and downstairs restaurants. We were seated almost instantly, angled into the room – a small but welcome detail.
We started with water, a glass of Flat Iron Malbec and the beef-dripping popcorn, a great way to kick things off. The wine was a gentle, dry Malbec that paired well with the richness of what followed.
The menu is refreshingly simple: Flat Iron steak (cooked to choice), six sides and a handful of burger options. It keeps decision-making to a minimum and let’s the kitchen focus on doing a few things very well.
Blackboard specials add a little temptation – green chilli cheeseburger (made with Flat Iron herd beef), a wagyu steak of the day and a Scottish bavette. Drinks are equally well considered, with a curated list of wines, cocktails and draught beers, including a blackboard pale ale special, Joosy, from local brewery Unbarred.
We both ordered the Flat Iron steak, medium-rare. It arrived pre-sliced, thin and perfectly pink in the middle, with lovely flavours and melt in your-mouth tenderness.
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Sides included the homemade beef-dripping chips and the truffled macaroni cheese – unmistakably truffley and proudly described by our waitress as the restaurant’s most popular side. We also added creamed spinach and the homemade smoked chilli mayo, both excellent companions to the steak.
There’s no pudding or coffee, keeping things deliberately straightforward, but we were sent back out into the Brighton night with a generous and very welcome free ice cream each – a sweet ending to a thoroughly enjoyable visit.
• 34 Ship Street, Brighton and Hove, Brighton, Sussex BN1 1AD, flatironsteak.co.uk/restaurant/brighton
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