La Gomera, La Palma, and El Hierro: Exploring the Hidden Treasures of the Canary Islands
From the magical serenity of La Gomera, to the stargazing peaks of La Palma and the unspoiled charm of El Hierro, Index Digital's Stephen Gurney discovers the quieter side of the Canary Islands.
Images Index Digital
La Gomera (The Magical Island)
As I set off by ferry on my trip from Los Cristianos, the famous tourist spot on Tenerife, the journey soon becomes a heave-ho affair as the strong westerlies cause the boat to rock uncomfortably. I do not generally suffer from sea sickness, but if I did, this crossing – although short – would be challenging in crosswind conditions.
My first destination is La Gomera – known as the magical island, it is the smallest of all eight main Canary Islands. The capital, San Sebastián, is a complete contrast to Los Cristianos and Las Américas. Gone are the hordes of English tourists wandering around the tailor-made tourist streets, and in its place are gentle whitewashed Spanish buildings and a quieter, more relaxed pace of life, where walkers and locals roam the streets.
The vibe could not be more different. La Gomera is a walking island, with huge rocks carved out of volcanic eruptions thousands of years ago and black sand beaches washed by the azure blue sea.
The bus ride to Playa Santiago in the south through the mountains was positively exhilarating. Our driver, who no doubt had done this many times, seemed to be behind schedule and determined to catch up, chasing and even overtaking cars around tiny bends across a vast mountain pathway. The journey up the mountain was equally as scenic and nerve-wracking as the journey down. Still… in one piece, shaken but not stirred, we arrived in the small, peaceful ferry port of Playa de Santiago, with its whitewashed houses, restaurants and bars.
I am doing a solo trip around the two islands south of Tenerife: La Gomera and La Palma. Travelling alone is a distinct experience compared to travelling with company, and I’m not sure which I prefer. One has more freedom to make easy decisions, but sometimes it lacks companionship. It does allow for soulful reflection and the chance to do what you choose. My mind is constantly talking to me, so I keep easy company and rarely argue with myself.
I took a small Fred Olsen Ferry around the north of the island to the pretty port of Valle Gran Rey, which contained lots of German tourists, mostly in hiking gear. There is an infamous German hippy commune on the island.
Public transport is excellent across all the islands, especially buses and ferries, which are easy to book online and generally offer great value. You can just pay in euros on the bus. The small ferry covers only a short way around the island, and the buses cover the rest, but for true freedom, you may decide to rent a car.
La Gomera is a small, quiet island scattered with small fishing villages. Attractions for tourists include walking, diving, whale and dolphin watching, and incredible scenery.
The bus ride back to the capital was equally exhilarating and scenic, cutting across over 3,900 hectares of the best-preserved laurel forests in the Canary Islands, with a high number of large, old trees, as well as the best-preserved network of streams, reaching a height of 1,000 metres before descending back to sea level. This experience was all for the bargain price of €2.60 for the entire two-hour journey.
Places to Stay on La Gomera:
- Apartamentos La Banda (booking.com): A lovely apartment overlooking Playa de Santiago, run by a quirky family.
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La Palma
The island of La Palma is two-and-a-half hours by ferry from La Gomera and costs around 50 euros if booked online. La Palma is the fifth largest of the Canary Islands and has a population of 84,000 inhabitants, most of whom live in the capital, Santa Cruz, or the second-largest town, Los Llanos de Aridane.
Santa Cruz, with its colonial buildings, stunning mansions, churches and cobbled streets laid out on the side of a rocky hill, has a distinctly Spanish feel with a history that dates to the 15th century. It played a significant role in the Spanish Empire as a major trading post for Europe and the Americas.
Travelling around La Palma by bus is the best way to see the island without the hassle of car hire, in my opinion. The routes are simple and cover the entire island. Plus, the scenery is truly spectacular as the bus winds its way around this volcanic island. La Palma is also reputedly the third-best place in the world to see the night sky from its highest mountain, Roques de los Muchachos, at 2,400 metres. That said, I failed miserably to do this stargazing, as my four planned trips were all cancelled due to cloud cover! (I did manage a stargazing trip on Tenerife at the end of my journey at Mount Teide, and for the sunset and clear star-filled sky, it’s well worth the experience.)
I am trying to learn Spanish on these trips with some help from apps on my phone, but it’s proving hard, especially as the odd Spanish word and general pointing seem to get me by. One time, I decided to hike to a village north of Santa Cruz, Las Nieves, and arrived at this small, beautiful Spanish village where there was no English. I tried to order from the all-Spanish menu that I didn’t understand and ended up being served three different large potato dishes, much to the amusement of the bar staff, who must have thought I was on a special carbohydrate diet!
I took two buses to travel the entire north side of the island (six hours) from Santa Cruz via Los Llanos de Aridane and back to Santa Cruz, and another two buses to cover the entire south of the island, again another six hours, over two days. The buses mainly go around the coastal areas and travel through some gorgeous hillside villages.
Places to Stay on La Palma:
- Rivendell Eco Lodge: In the mountains north of Los Llanos de Aridane. Highly remote, run by the lovely Alison from Wales. It offers shared accommodation but you can also book your own rooms. There are lots of cats and dogs, and the mountain views are incredible – only accessible along a stony riverbed! (booking.com)
- Sonia’s City View Santa Cruz: A great one-bedroom apartment right in the middle of the city and by the sea.
El Hierro: The Hidden Gem of the Canary Islands
While La Gomera is a magical island in its own right, El Hierro, the smallest of the Canary Islands, offers its own slice of serenity and untouched beauty. Often overshadowed by its larger neighbours, El Hierro is a haven for those seeking tranquility and an authentic Canarian experience. Known for its rugged cliffs, lush forests and crystal-clear waters, El Hierro is perfect for hiking, diving and stargazing. The island’s commitment to sustainability is also impressive – El Hierro became the first island in the world to be powered entirely by renewable energy, mainly from wind and hydroelectric power.
The island’s small size makes it easy to explore, but the rugged terrain provides a unique challenge for those eager to explore its hidden treasures. From the volcanic landscape of Las Playas to the towering cliffs at La Restinga, El Hierro’s beauty is awe-inspiring. For diving enthusiasts, the waters surrounding the island are home to abundant marine life and some of the clearest diving conditions in the Canary Islands. The island is also known for its beautiful, untouched beaches and picturesque rural villages, where time seems to slow down.
Image Photo by Martin Godetz on Unsplash
El Hierro’s capital, Valverde, is a small, charming town nestled in the hills, offering a relaxed atmosphere and stunning views. It’s a world away from the bustling tourist centres of the larger islands, providing a rare opportunity to experience the true essence of the Canary Islands.
Places to Stay on El Hierro:
- Casa Tia Blanca in Valverde on booking.com
There are plenty of other property providers and apps you may prefer or even just walk in to the hotels and ask if they have rooms. I tend to book at late notice once but that won’t suit everybody.
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